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The Tapas Tree asiacuisine rating: 88/100
Cuisine |
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The word ‘tapas’ never did inspire much of an animated response from your average Singaporean… apart from the sporadic ‘HAH?’ (Tapas comes from the Spanish word ‘tapar’, which means ‘to cover’ or ‘lid’. In Andalusia, a wine-making region in Southern Spain, a piece of bread was commonly placed over a person’s wine glass to keep out the dust and flies. Andalusians then started placing other food items on top of the bread, and this idea eventually evolved into ‘tapas’.) Meanwhile, here in Asia, the more commonly understood ‘dim sum’ or ‘fingerfood’ has come to suggest ‘expensive snacks’ – something you don’t have every day but rather at family gatherings and parties. True to form, our general apathy towards this culture of small delights has caused the demise of one or two first-rate tapas bars and restaurants over the past few years.
But it would seem this brand new restaurant has all the elements in place to make for a Spanish success story at last – including a healthy showing of diners on a Thursday night. This concept-driven cafÈ and bar seats a large number of guests outside under its dining canopy on a ‘boardwalk’ platform by the river, in a great spot blessed by cool breezes which is just 5 minutes walk from Clarke Quay MRT station. It is recommended you make reservations before 9pm, as none are accepted after and (at least on my visit) a queue starts to form as the evening progresses. Tables covered in mosaic tiles are complemented by spacious wicker chairs with soft cushions, and a trio of melodious baritones who call themselves the ‘Los Chicos’ sing their way into your soul (all days except Tuesdays) as you wait for your food to arrive. Service is swift and amicable, particularly, as I observed, a spunky young lady called ‘Rayhidah’.
It is imperative that you pace yourself when ordering and plan your snacks around the large main course of paella – traditional Spanish pan-roasted rice (the most highly recommended of which was the ‘paella Valencia’ which has chorizo sausages, seafood, vegetables and eggs). Apart from rice, the plump menu selection is organised into hot seafood/meat tapas, cold tapas, vegetables, croquetas (deep-fried potato rolls). Of the dishes I tried, one of the simplest-cooked was a cut above the rest in the taste department – the ‘salpicado’, beef tenderloin cubes sautÈed in olive oil and garlic. I was informed the secret lay in how well the garlic is first pan-roasted to a succulent golden-brown, before the meat is added. The price does reflect the skill involved though – at $15 for one portion – you expect a lasting memory.
Another delicious assembly is the cold tapas of pimientos (capsicum) stuffed with cream cheese, oregano and mint. Don’t expect much varied texture, but the (huge dollop of) light cheese perfectly complements the sweet, roasted vegetable in a way you don’t quite expect. The croquetas come with four standard fillings – chicken, fetta, ham and shrimp – and can be quite dry, so mop up the garlic aioli that is served with it (but take a big gulp of that red, white or sparkling sangria before you talk to anyone up close). All desserts here weigh in on the substantial side and include the all time favourite churros (strips of dough which are piped out by hand and fried a la minute at Tapas Tree) with chocolate, caramelised custard, and bread pudding with sugar and cinnamon.
There’s a lot more on the menu than can be illustrated in just words. The only way to fully understand the stimulation of Spanish finger food is to head on down to the restaurant yourself!
(By Elena May Gudgeon)